View from the Foothills of France

Some personal views on living, working,
bringing up family and making the dream happen in the most beautiful region of France. View from the Foothills of France also includes some personal and professional thoughts and tips on finding and buying the perfect property in the Ariège and Haute Garonne regions.

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Delays ahead – with bells on…

In the next couple of weeks I will be allowing extra time when out on property searches and viewings in the high valleys of the Pyrenees. At this time of year roads and even whole villages are likely to be closed at certain times to accommodate one of the great cultural traditions of this part of the Ariège; the transhumance or literally ‘the seasonal movement of livestock,’ a practice which dates from at least the Middle Ages.

This happens twice a year and takes on epic proportions when the animals from the farms on the valley plains are herded up to the high mountain pastures to spend the summer months in freedom. In October it is the opposite procedure with the descent back down from the mountains to the valleys for the winter. The numbers are impressive – in the Ariège over 12,000 cattle, 40,000 sheep and over 1,000 horses make this annual pilgrimage to higher pastures. This is why, when walking the mountain trails and passes around here in the summer, the hills are alive with the sound of bells; you will often come across groups of Merens, the local breed of horse, a bell around the neck of the leader, free to wander where they please, or cows similarly oblivious to the gentle chiming they make with every move. Likewise, you will find herds of sheep seemingly quite alone but actually guarded by the beautiful white dogs of the Pyrenees, the Patou, who stay with the animals and protect them from attack or harm.



The journey from valley to mountain with the herds of animals during the transhumance can take several days and takes on a holiday atmosphere with many members of the villages and surrounding farms helping out and camping together each night. The whole event has become a friendly social gathering and walkers are always welcome to join the farmers as they move their animals. Many have no experience of farming but take part in order to encounter a way of life still so firmly rooted in tradition and something that probably most of us imagined had died out centuries ago.

For me, the most dramatic procession from a spectator’s point of view is the troupe of 200 or so Merans horses (the local breed) making the journey from their fields in St Lizier through the narrow streets of the towns and villages and then slowly up the mountain roads, expertly herded by a few brave souls whose main means of controlling them seems to be a frantic waving of arms. It’s certainly not a sight that you see every day and a perfect illustration of the enduring and unchanging way of life here in the foothills of the French Pyrenees – and certainly a more entertaining way to be delayed on the way to work than heavy traffic on the M25.

Have the French found the recipe for happiness?

According to a survey by the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), the French spend more time eating, sleeping and shopping than any other country. I have lived in France for eight years now and I would say that yes, it’s all true – but how do they do it, how do they find all this extra time in their lives when the rest of us seem to struggle to find time to grab a sandwich or even get enough sleep?


Apparently the French sleep an average of 8.5 hours (yes average!) It makes France the longest sleepers out of all 34 of the OECD’s members. Does this mean that the French have less to fit into their days or are they just more relaxed about what does and doesn’t get done? Do they have less to worry about – or maybe they expect the state to do their worrying for them – and thus sleep easy at night (or in the afternoon!)

The French also spend the most time eating and drinking at more than two hours per day on average which is nearly twice as long as the Americans and Canadians. Looking at obesity rates though, clearly time spent consuming doesn’t necessarily mean more consumed. Of course it is this emphasis on long, lazy lunches that brought many of us here in the first place but it is very noticeable that the French do not eat or drink excessively – a meal is probably less dense than in the UK but each element makes up a separate course to be lingered over, enjoyed and never rushed. Nor do the French tend to snack in my experience. So more food and wine isn’t crossing the lips of the French – it just feels as if it is.

It turns out that the French are big shoppers too – or perhaps just slow shoppers. According to the report, the French spend 32 minutes each day shopping. However, I would guess that we are primarily talking about shopping for food here. Most of the French people I know shop for fresh ingredients every day and have no problem taking their time about it – it is all part of that pleasure of appreciating their food.

Unsurprisingly therefore, the report also shows that French people have the second-highest life expectancy in the OECD, presumably thanks to the high amount of time spent enjoying themselves. Add that to the 28% of GDP that the French state spends on healthcare and social welfare, the highest spending of any OECD country and it all starts to make perfect sense.

The rest of us can only look on enviously – or make that move to France and hope that some of the magic dust rubs off. Vive la France!

Ten tips on buying a renovation project

We Brits are known as both courageous and slightly bonkers in France thanks to our penchant for buying complete wrecks and spending immense amounts of time, effort and money in restoring them. For many this is an incredibly rewarding and satisfying process but, for some, who bite off more than they can chew, the whole experience becomes a nightmare and a financial mess from which it is hard to bounce back.

So what should you take into consideration when it comes to buying a renovation project in France? Nadia Jordan, FrenchEntree’s property finder in the Ariège and Haute Garonne, presents 10 factors to consider before taking the plunge:

1. Get a builder’s estimate… then double it!

Everyone underestimates the cost and time needed to bring an old property back to life, especially if you intend to retain as much of the original building and character as possible. Remember too that you will not necessarily recover all of your investment on selling the house, so make sure you are doing it for yourself and not just to make money.

2. Find out whether the property is connected to all the utilities

If it is no longer lived in, it may not be connected to the electricity grid or even the water mains. A rural property is almost sure to require a new septic tank, which can be very expensive.

3. Be realistic

How much of the work you are able or want to do yourself and how much you can afford to pay somebody else to do it for you. If you are going to do all the work yourself, it is going to take much longer than if you pay a team of builders and artisans to do it for you, but it will also cost a great deal less.

4. Be sure that you are happy with the location

You can change almost anything else, but not where it is located. Here in the foothills and valleys of the Pyrenees, the position of the house is particularly important if you want to take advantage of the long hours of winter sunshine and enjoy a view of the mountains. A bargain wreck of a house may offer fantastic potential and could undoubtedly be transformed into a grand design, but if it is on the shady side of the valley or in a flood plain, no amount of hard work and money can transform it into the perfect house.

5. Check on planning rules

The planning regulations in France are much less strict than in the UK but there can be restrictions depending on the area and the type of property. For example, in certain parts of the Ariège, the type of roof covering you can have is specified and, in others, Velux windows are not allowed. If these are a major part of your plan, it is worth checking with the Mairie beforehand.

6. Find out about grants

Grants are available for certain ‘green’ improvements such as insulation, solar panels and wood burning stoves. If starting from scratch, it certainly makes sense to make your house as eco-friendly and energy efficient as possible.

7. If you intend to live in the property while undertaking the renovation

Make sure you know what sort of conditions you can cope with. What might be fun for a couple of months in the summer will be less so during the cold winter months and I have yet to see a restoration project that has been completed within the allotted time frame.

8. Take advice before removing walls

Even thin partitions can have a structural function and provide rigidity to the frame of the building. Open-plan living might be very fashionable but many old French houses are just not designed this way.

9. Talk to your neighbours

Tell them what you are planning to do and take advice on where to get materials and which artisans to use.

10. Find a builder who you like and trust

This is vital, so take your time, check references and previous jobs and make sure that you get a written quote (un devis) and understand what is and isn’t included. Remember, any changes you make to the plans as the work progresses will be charged extra. It is also worth noting that French artisans are a laid-back lot and will not always turn up when they say they will and will always take a two hour lunch-break. So, for everyone’s sake, it is best to understand that the frustrations of France are also part of the charm and this is why we are all here. Go with the flow and you will enjoy your project much more.

To be or not to be – your very own Hamlet

One of the best bits about this job is getting to visit lots of interesting houses, barns and ruins, many of them tucked away in hidden corners of the region. Some are wonderful, others less so but this morning I have just been to see something really unusual; a complete hamlet for sale made up of a large stone house, a six person gîte, a four person gîte and three lovely un-restored barns.

The owners, now selling up, have been living ‘the dream’ here in the Couserans region of the Ariège for the last 30 years, having restored this collection of crumbling houses and stone buildings and transformed them into a thriving gîte business. They have two horses on the couple of hectares of land surrounding the hamlet and beautiful gardens with mountain views in all directions. If only I were an estate agent, this is one I could certainly wax lyrical about.

Unfortunately I don’t have a client with the necessary million Euro budget to buy this right now but I do know from the enquiries I get that more and more people are looking for a better work-life balance and a bit of land where they can live a life more attuned to their environment. One of the most popular ways of achieving this is moving to rural France to set up a gîte business but the problem with this is that, in many parts of France, the market is now saturated and gîte owners are finding it increasingly hard to compete and earn a living.

Interestingly however, this is not yet the case in the Ariège which has a distinct lack of good quality gîtes in an area which otherwise provides the perfect holiday destination summer and winter. Hence this gîte complex is already almost booked up for the summer and also regularly booked up for the ski season, the nearest resort of Guzet Neige being just half an hour away.

So while not everybody looking to move here is going to have this kind of budget, the dream of running a gîte business in the Ariege is probably more achievable than it would be in most parts of France. And if you are interested in being Lord of the Manor, just get in touch for more details.