View from the Foothills of France Some personal views on living, working,
bringing up family and making the dream happen in the most beautiful region of France. View from the Foothills of France also includes some personal and professional thoughts and tips on finding and buying the perfect property in the Ariège and Haute Garonne regions.
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By nadia, on 28th October 2010
I have been having an interesting discussion recently with a potential client who believes that, thanks to the internet, he can search for his dream house just as easily from his home in England as I can here on the ground in sunny France and therefore cannot really see why he needs me.
My argument is that the internet is actually a very limited tool when it comes to house hunting and should definitely be used as just one of many ‘weapons’ in the armoury. I bet there are not many people out there who have seen a house in the Ariège or Haute Garonne advertised on line, managed to visit and found it exactly as they had expected or hoped.
In my experience, all those hours trawling property sites on the internet so often turn out to be a waste of time as, more often than not, the houses shown are no longer available (sometimes they never were) or are pictured carefully cropped so as to hide the enormous pylon in the foreground. Estate agents descriptions only contain the most basic facts, so it is impossible to tell what a house is really like – let alone whether it’s located near a noisy road, railway line or sewage farm.
Pretty house – but why is it so tightly cropped…?
Moreover, many of the estate agencies in this region do not even have a website – part of the old fashioned charm of France can also be frustrating and you really do have to visit each agency to find out what they have on their books. Notaires also sometimes have some real gems that are only ever advertised locally, which is often also the case with private sales in the region. Many more houses are sold privately in France than in the UK and the only way to discover these is to be on the spot as lots of French people privately selling houses in this region, do not have access to the internet so will rely on petits annonces (private ads) and local boards to sell their houses.
The problem is that it usually takes a potential client a few wasted, expensive trips and frustrating viewings of completely unsuitable properties before they begin to understand my argument and actually begin to see the benefit of using a property finder. Anyway, having had the ‘finding a house on the internet – or not’ discussion a few times this week, I decided to test my theory and get out and about.
For me too, it is far too easy to sit in front of my computer and think I am doing a thorough job but I likewise need reminding that there is life outside of cyberspace – and my job after all is about knowing my region; both the good bits and the bad. So I turned off the computer and phone and went out to ‘faire un tour’ of the villages and countryside which make up my beautiful corner of France, looking out for those all important ‘a vendre’ signs and talking to local people. What’s more, it is such a pleasure to drive around this stunning area – there is nothing like fresh, mountain air to invigorate and clear the head and nothing like chatting to the eminently grounded local people here to realize that the world won’t stop if I am away from my computer or telephone for an afternoon.
The views are spectacular here in the foothills at any time of year but, right now, with all the trees beginning to turn thousands of shades of orange and red, they are simply breathtaking. I headed out south of Saint Girons towards the Pyrenees, through Moulis and Castillon en Couserans and then into the stunning Vallée du Biros and the pretty and very special village of Sentein; a truly uplifting tour that I can recommend to anyone who is feeling in any way stressed or overloaded.
Sentein
I arrived back at my office with new energy and enthusiasm for this very beautiful part of South West France as well as with a small list of interesting houses which I had noticed for sale that were certainly not nor ever would be advertised on the internet. I also came back with renewed certainty that the only way to find the real gems of houses in the very best locations, is to get out and do my research the good, old-fashioned way. The internet is undoubtedly a fantastic invention but, at the end of the day, nothing can match local knowledge and simply being here on the ground.
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By nadia, on 5th October 2010
Every year a group of hikers from all over the world meet up in the lovely town of Saint Girons, the capital of the Couserans region of the Ariège, in order to hike over the Pyrenees into Spain. But this is no gentle ramble; it is four days of serious hiking and tough conditions; this year it was the heat that caused problems, with temperatures reaching 37 degrees but fog, rain and snow are not unknown.
The group, most of whom do not know each other, meet at the vieux pont in the centre of Saint Girons, loaded with heavy backpacks. This is a challenge even for the fittest but it is, nevertheless, a walk in the park compared to the experience of the many hundreds of men and women who took this route during the Second World War. And this is why most of the group are here; many had relations who escaped the Nazis by using this route and they have come to commemorate the bravery of these soldiers and resistance fighters and of the local, mountain people who led them safely along the route and provided them with shelter and food.
There were a number of escape routes through France during World War Two but the Comete Line, the Pat O’Leary Line and the Marie Claire Line were the most famous. One of the O’Leary networks went through central France to Agen & Toulouse then to the central Pyrenees to the starting point of “Le Chemin de la Liberté” in St Girons. The high mountain route into Spain was carefully chosen as it avoided all official checkpoints. Between 1940 & 1944, there were 33,000 successful escapes along the entire length of the Pyrenean chain and 782 escaped over the mountain peaks of the Ariège. During the war several escape trails were established near St Girons and other towns and villages surrounding it like Foix, Tarascon, Aulus-Les-Bains, Massat, Castillon, Seix & Sentein all had invisible mountain routes towards the Spanish frontier.
One of the most famous English escapees was the World War resistance fighter Nancy Wake who worked for the Special Operations Executive and was forced to flee from the Gestapo in 1943 along Le Chemin de la Liberté. Many had no food, completely unsuitable clothing and had to survive terrible weather conditions and heavy snow along the route. Most would never have survived without the help and bravery of the local Ariègeois.
By the beginning of 1943 German surveillance had increased often due to the betrayal by Frenchmen who worked for the feared Vichy-run paramilitary force “La Milice” and there were many ambushes along the trails. Despite this increased surveillance, the St Girons-Esterri escape route via Mont Valier remained operational until the end of the war.
Hence, each year, a guide leads a group along the trail to commemorate those who made it and those who did not. What a great and very appropriate way to remember such brave, determined and enterprising people.
The text on this post along the route says:
“Claustre J-Marc, 1943, 14 ans berger, je montais au Mt Ceint pour surveiller les patrouilles allemandes pour aider les passeurs vers le pic des trois seigneurs.”
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By nadia, on 23rd September 2010 Apparently today is officially the first day of Autumn. Which, in the sunny south west of France, means that, despite the fact that the sun is shining, the sky is blue and Meteo France is forecasting 26 degrees in Saint Girons for this afternoon, everyone here is now wearing winter coats and winter boots. Well, everyone that is except for us – the crazy famille anglaise.
An autumn day in Saint Girons
As we arrive at school on another perfect, sunny morning, nobody actually says the words, irresponsible mother – or certainly not within my hearing – but the slightly shocked looks as each new parent and teacher clocks my children’s bare knees and toes, say it all. I fear that, if this was England, I would probably be reported to social services for cruelty to children.
There is no doubt that there is a noticeable chill in the air in the mornings now; a warning that colder weather is not that far away. To put this in a British context however, we are still eating every meal outside on the terrace and by mid-afternoon it is definitely too hot to sit in the sun. This is better than English summers that I remember and, being forever British at heart, there is no way that I am going to waste any opportunity to make the most of every last warm ray of summer (or autumn) sun. Of course winter has its own pleasures but I am not ready for them yet. It is another of the many reasons we live in this glorious part of the world where the summers seem to go on and on. Much as I love England, I have always struggled with those endless long grey months whereas here winter proper doesn’t really start until December and, even then, it is usually bright and sunny, albeit cold, with that wonderful, mood-enhancing southern light.
Luckily, one of the many good things about being an English family in France is that we can get away with odd behaviour which our friends and neighbours here happily put down to typical British eccentricity. And of course, there’s nothing the French like better than us behaving in ways that confirm their beliefs about England – such as the wearing of t-shirts in September which clearly proves that we grew up in such a truly horrible climate that we are inured to the cold and thus can get away with wearing summer clothes in September when normal people are wearing jumpers and fur lined boots. Being British, we are expected to behave strangely, thus we can (and do) get away with so much more. Personally I rather like this role of eccentric abroad.
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By nadia, on 9th September 2010
I am often asked what is my favourite time of year here in the foothills of south west France and usually the answer is right now. But there really is something very special about the autumn months in the Ariège which is why (September being right now) I would say that this is my favourite time of year.
I love the abundance of fruit and vegetables at the market in Saint Girons, the colours in the valleys of the Couserans, the golden light and the calmness that descends as the holidaymakers take their leave. Rather than the end of summer, I am more inclined to see Autumn as the start of a new cycle; maybe it is the ‘back-to-school’ thing of new pencil cases and shiny new shoes but I find it a very positive and energetic time of year.
On a more practical (and property) note, this is also of course the hunting season and by that I mean house hunting as opposed to the wild boar that my neighbours are so keen to track down now that the chasse has started. As the summer crowds leave, a sense of calm purposefulness has descended and even the agents have begun to return my calls. Plus some real gems have started to appear on the market; house owners who have been pondering all summer whether or not to sell, seem to have finally taken the decision; thus the choice of houses for sale seems to have doubled overnight.
What’s more, the weather is generally perfect at this time of year. Every morning I open my shutters to another cloudless, blue-sky day, the outline of the Pyrenees so clear that it feels I could almost reach out and touch them. Mornings and evenings are fresh (chilly even) but, by midday, the sun is hot on my back and I am too warm in a t-shirt; layers are the ‘mode du jour’ at this time of the year. Soon we will see the first sprinkle of snow on the highest peaks with the promise that brings of skiing at Guzet, snowshoeing around the Etang de Lers and magical, winter-wonderland walks through the woods. This weather usually lasts right through until December with the mornings and evenings getting progressively colder but the midday sun still strong enough to successfully take any chill out of the air, the ideal conditions for al fresco coffees and lunches sur la terrace.
Perfect days like these are one of the many reasons why we live in France and, more particularly, in the beautiful foothills of the Ariège.
www.frenchentree.com/ariege-haute-garonne-property-finder
nadia@foothillsoffrance.com
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