View from the Foothills of France

Some personal views on living, working,
bringing up family and making the dream happen in the most beautiful region of France. View from the Foothills of France also includes some personal and professional thoughts and tips on finding and buying the perfect property in the Ariège and Haute Garonne regions.

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‘The origin of species’ and local markets (horse-meat optional)

Pick 'n' mix - cepes, the king of the mushroom

Pick ‘n’ mix – cepes, the king of the mushroom

 

The whole horse-meat farce has highlighted once again a subject close to my heart – the importance of buying and eating locally sourced, fresh and seasonal produce. In many countries we have become far too far removed from the source of our food and far too disinterested in how this food is produced. Thank goodness this is not the case here in the Ariège (one of the many reasons we are here) where there is a very strong tradition of producing one’s own food (fruit, vegetables, eggs, rabbits and pigs) and of buying from local producers so that you know exactly where your food is coming from and what it contains (or hopefully doesn’t contain).

This is the right part of the world for me because I actually have a pathological hatred of shopping (in shops) which I realize is not very girlie of me but it is just not my thing. Luckily nowadays when I need a new shirt or pair of jeans, I can simply find and buy online and have my friendly postie deliver without having to go near a shop. And I particularly dislike shopping in the supermarket but this is something I find much harder to avoid because we are a family of six on a budget. In France, supermarkets are just beginning to cotton on to the idea of grocery shopping online but it is too big and too rural a country for home delivery to be an option so I do find myself in Intermarché far more often than I would like.

Having said that, however, one of the many reasons I love living here in South West France is that it is still quite possible to do the majority of the weekly shop at the local market which is exactly what I do. So every Monday morning, as soon as I have dropped the children at school, you will find me in the market place at Salies du Salat where I am first name terms with many of the stall holders and where I can find wonderful local, organically grown, in-season produce at a much better price than in the supermarket. Here shopping is brought back to a human level – I can discuss every subject under the sun (the French just love a good debate) while choosing my apples or my ham and generally pass the time of day so that by the time I am finished it just feels that I have spent a pleasant couple of hours chatting having incidentally done my weekly shop. We are spoiled for choice for fantastic local produce here; the cheese is out of this world, the eggs freshly laid, the meat excellent quality (yes there is horse but it is labelled as such!) and locally sourced and the fruit and vegetables are seasonal unless they have come over the border from Spain, in which case it is possible to find the odd red pepper or tomato in the winter months. Then a quick trip to the smiliest bakery in France and I am back at my desk by mid-morning to begin my working week.

By Saturday, if we are running out of fresh produce, we have one of the best markets in France, incredibly colourful and eccentric, just 15 minutes away in Saint Girons which is worth a visit even if you don’t have any shopping to do.

Somehow shopping at the local market is uplifting and life affirming while supermarket shopping destroys the soul. I leave the market feeling happy and energetic and I leave the supermarket feeling depressed and drained. If only I could wean my children off breakfast cereal and pasta and myself off coffee and chocolate, I could pretty much eliminate the supermarket shop altogether which I think is going to be one of my new season resolutions.

And now I shall get off my soap box and I promise my next post will be back on property…!

Striking skiing – the school day in France

A tough day at school!

A tough day at school!

We have discovered since living in France that, most of the time here, it is best just to go with the flow. Hence, when we learned on Monday that Tuesday school was cancelled (teachers on strike for the day), rather than stressing about childcare and cancelled meetings, we decided to ‘saisir le jour’ and hit the slopes for the day, despite the forecast looking decidedly ropey. The teachers, however, clearly had insider knowledge that neither we, nor Meteo France were privy to because by the time we had our skis on, the clouds had cleared, the sky was blue, the views were breathtaking and we spent the day skiing on 30 centimetres of fresh powder and almost empty pistes (only a few teachers to be seen here and there!) in the sunshine, punctuated by lunch in our favourite restaurant.

Nice spot for lunch - Chalet Beauregarde

Nice spot for lunch – Chalet Beauregarde

It is days like these which remind us why we decided to settle in this very special part of the world. There can’t be many places where you can be skiing within an hour of leaving home and the fact that our nearest skiing happens to be one of the best kept secret in the Pyrénées, means that we often feel as if we have our own private ski resort. And yet, while much of Europe has been struggling with bad weather and snow, we have not had any at home; we just have the pleasure of looking at it on the mountains from the window and enjoying it on sunny days when we feel like it.

Empty pistes and fresh powder snow

Empty pistes and fresh powder snow

The teachers certainly picked their day for a strike – and we are already looking forward to the next one!

Paradise in the Pyrenees

Paradise in the Pyrenees

 

P.S. We weren’t the only one bunking off – the gendarmes were at it too!

Police on the piste

Police on the piste

 

 

 

 

Home sweet home

Home exchange cartoon

We did our first ever home exchange over Christmas and New Year as a means of having a holiday that we would otherwise never have been able to afford. It was such a great experience that I am wondering why everyone doesn’t do it as a matter of course. Perhaps we just got lucky with our exchange partners but I have spoken to other people now who have had a similarly positive experience and are already planning their next exchange so it is obviously a scheme which is gaining in popularity.

The whole idea is such a clever and obvious concept; after all, why leave your house empty for two weeks and pay someone else to spend two weeks in their house – why not just find someone who lives in a place where you would like to go, who would like to visit the area you live and then swap houses, cars, pets, neighbours etc? We didn’t even exchange houses at the same time; there are plenty of people out there who exchange their holiday homes and so can be flexible as to dates and there is such a plethora of properties available for exchange now on the various house exchange sites, that it is quite likely that you will find the perfect match.

Obviously it helps to not be too precious about your house but, in the current belt-tightening times, it does just seem to make so much sense, especially if it is the difference between having a holiday or not. There seems to be plenty of demand too for houses in France and we get offers of exchanges all the time, so anyone who has a home or a holiday home out here is likely to have a really wide choice of properties and locations to choose from. And an extra bonus for us has been the wonderful feedback we got from our exchangers which has made us yet again realize in what a very beautiful and special place we live and made us appreciate our home all the more.

 

The rise and rise of ski and mountain properties

Luchon in the snow

Luchon in the snow

Having been lucky enough to spend Christmas and New Year on the slopes, I thought I should take a quick look at the ski property market here in the Pyrénées. While a financial avalanche threatens to engulf many property markets in the Euro zone, ski properties are bucking the trend and growing in popularity. Ski properties now account for 9% of the British-owned holiday home market overseas, according to Savills, and ski tourism is on the up too, expanding by 5% a year for a decade. And although cheapness is rarely a word associated with ski property, there are still plenty of well-located and excellent value ski properties available in this region to buyers of all budgets, particularly for those people seeking bolt-holes that they can use themselves, rent out easily and hopefully reap some eventual capital gain.

France is still Europe’s most popular ski destination for property buyers, attracting a third of the market. The millionaires head to their super-chalets in Megève and Courchevel, with average costs of around 9,300 Euros per square metre but France has a huge range of lesser-known and far better value resorts with equally good skiing and very reasonable property prices. This is particularly true of the ski resorts here in the Pyrénées, many of which are almost unknown to the foreign investor and yet which offer fantastic investments – with some great skiing thrown in. Particularly popular with my clients in the last few years has been the area around and close to Superbagnères (the ski resort attached to Bagnères de Luchon) where prices per metre are closer to 2,600 Euros, although higher for property right in the town. With its antique shops, restaurants, cafés, hotels, nightclub, casino, cinema, golf course, tennis courts, chocolate shops, market and spa, Luchon is one of those towns that exudes ‘old money’ and is very stylish but still very affordable. Being a popular holiday destination winter and summer (thanks to its ski resorts, thermal baths and spa, plethora of year-round activities, fantastic walking and cycling, stunning scenery and easy access from Toulouse and Pau), properties here have excellent rental potential all year round.

A one-bedroom apartment in the middle of Luchon would currently cost around 100-120,000 Euros and would rent out for around 250-400 Euros per week. For a typical example of the type of property available and possible rental potential, take a look at this property (I must declare a personal interest in this one!) For a French holiday retreat and excellent year-round rental investment, I would have to say that Luchon and the French Pyrénées are hard to beat.

Wishing you a very happy 2013 and hoping that, whatever your dreams for a home in France, they all come true.